SURFACE LIBRARY

"Sum of Parts"

2009-05-23T08:12:00.002-04:00

Spring '09 @ Surface Library

2009-03-23T10:25:00.002-04:00

James Kennedy @ Sylvester & Company

2009-03-02T09:17:00.000-05:00

Angkor, Cambodia, an education and inspiration.

2009-02-18T21:06:00.005-05:00

Having spent but a brief spell in the land of Kampuchea, I suggested to Bob that we end the blog here. Somehow the experience of Cambodia had rendered me speechless (not a bad thing, I hear you say), suspended in an unsettling state of awe, aloofness, and enchantment.

Its citizens, smile openly and warmly through the memories of their turbulent history and the day we arrived, the first of several war criminals went on trial for their part in the Khmer genocides.The Killing Fields are frighteningly recent events and the numerous landmine victims are an ever-present jolt back to that horrendous period in contemporary history. But the Cambodian smile is an infectious one, and the indomitable spirit that emerges from that is simultaneously uplifting and heart-breaking .One can only pray that the contagion of tourism is held at bay by the present economic low and that this beautiful country is granted a reprieve and can continue to thrive on its modest colonial character, infused with innocence and generosity of spirit.

The dominant factor in all of this excursion was the overwhelming presence of the Angkor temples, and I have to confess, as with all the wonders of the world I have been privileged to witness, mans devotion, tenacity, belief and toil …….the creation of something so beyond our ken in scale and testimony, somehow spurns humble feelings…..heightened by the evident connection Cambodians have to their Gods and these monuments.

As we approached the entrance to Angkor Thom early on Sunday morning, waves of emotion washed over us……..a mixture of raw wonderment and immense privelege that we were permitted to stand in the presence of such a structure. These blocks of volcanic rock and sandstone had been hauled sixty kilometers . Men had carved pilot holes and inserted wooden dowels in order that elephants could pull their freight on bamboo rafts to the temple site. Once in place, one thousand workers had lived on the perimeters and carved the surfaces for fifty years or more …

As artists, we had the utmost respect for the cratmanship involved, but more importantly, the wondrous alchemy that nature had worked on the structures…… vibrant lichens and fungus over the red volcanic rock…..scorches,scars and oxidation had both destroyed and enhanced the decorative surfaces . Please put this on your “must visit” list. There are three hundred temples in a 150 kilometre radius and Angkor Wat alone spans one square kilometer.

Back to Bangkok

THE TIFFANY EXTRAVAGANZA

2009-02-15T10:35:00.003-05:00

Sorry to burst your “luxury goods” bubble but I feel compelled to inform you that the Tiffany trade mark is not solely applicable to beautiful lamps and silverware.

Off the main tourist drag in Soi 1 (district) in Pattya city, a modern theater houses the “Tiffany’s” show, (under the same roof as Thailand’s largest indoor shooting range …go figure). TIFFANY'S SHOW is the first ever truly transvestite cabaret show (running for nearly thirty years) in South East Asia and has become a recommended tourist destination of the successful growth of Thailand's most popular resort city.

Having never visited Las Vegas and carrying a vague recall of Baz Luhrmans Moulin Rouge I was slightly nervous of what I was about to witness…I had visions of aggressive drag performers sitting on my lap and attracting rapturous applause at my expense….so generally, myself and my colleagues held mixed feelings about the evening before us.

Any fears of what the 7-30 show held in store were immediately dispelled however, when a procession of the performers from the previous show paraded through the foyer and arranged themselves in a variety of photo-op vignettes in the parking lot. The costumes were unapologetically OTT, but it was impossible to take your eyes off these transgender performers (kathoey)….. they were absolutely beautiful!

Minutes later when the curtain rose, we were treated to an extravaganza containing endless meters of synthetic fiber, jewels, Thai-disney dance numbers in variety of themes…..Bollywood, Cossacks, Dream girls, ….Tina Turner even made an appearance. The only shortcoming of note was the “male chorus” , a collection of skinny and ungainly Thai boys who looked like they’d been taken off the streets that afternoon and given one hours rehearsal. …….truly awful… and the costume designer clearly just didn’t do men. An alternative theory was that at Tiffanys it was all about the ladies….. they are the stars of the show…… and we would have to wholeheartedly agree!!!

Educational note!

The term “kathoey” or katoey generally refers to a male-to-female transgender person or an effeminate gay male in Thailand. The word kathoey is thought to be of Khmer origin. It is most often rendered as ladyboy in English conversation with Thais and this latter expression has become popular across South East Asia

Some Random Shots

2009-02-11T23:01:00.004-05:00

A Little R&R

A little Work

For Bob, just a cold beer...

The guyz

Hell's angel - Thai style

The Artist Works

Top of the Pops Culinary Favorites!

2009-02-11T22:55:00.001-05:00

KFC - Thai Style

What's for Lunch?

Som Tam …..Spicy Pappaya Salad.
This is certainly my lunchtime favorite as it is both citrus and spicy, the grated green papaya and freshly roasted peanuts are deliccccious!
Pak Boon Fiidaeng……Morning Glory with Garlic and Oyster Sauce
Morning Glory (the stalk ..not the flower)strikes me as a hybrid of watercress and spinach but both flavors in the same vegetable….yummy
Dom Tom Yam Mapraao…….Spicy Coconut Soup with Seafood
Again…..this is the most tasty blend of Thai basil, garlic chilli and lemon grass in a creamy coconut stock and with shrimp of squid straight from the boat. Leaves your lips a-tingling.
QUESTION
We are still trying to work out the link between the Thai nation and why a large percentage of its tourist market is geared toward Scandinavia….any ideas??

Return to Ban Saray and Thrice around the Temple

2009-02-11T22:44:00.001-05:00

Thrice around the Temple

Sermon

The aforementioned stick on “smiley face” badges should have been replaced by the “somber frown” variety at the tourist office in Laem Ngop , but I guess they were out of stock. The minibus we reserved was overbooked by five, which meant a lengthy wait in he midday heat prior to our departure for Pattaya and transfer to Ban Saray. Enough of the whining already…..a minor hiccup in our …so far…hassle-free trip !
On our return to Ban Saray we suddenly saw the authentic Thai fishing town with new eyes after our sojourn on the farang oriented shores of Koh Chang and Koh Mak. It was refreshing to witness the hustle and bustle of their daily industry and to inhale the multitude of odors that waft through the narrow streets. We arrive on the weekend of a National Holiday, a celebration of the teachings of the Dharma, and one of the three tenets of Buddhism.
Carried by the current of townspeople under the light of a full moon, we poured into the grounds of the Wat and collected our lotus flowers, candles and incense.
The priests, young and old, were adorned in their immaculately folded saffron robes and chanted and prayed prior to leading off in procession around the temple.
Once for Buddha, Twice for Dharma, Thrice for Sangha.

Koh Mak - Thailand

2009-02-04T21:45:00.004-05:00

Arrival Lounge

View from our Porch

The Bungalow

Another Sunset

“No!…really?…no! ..we can’t!…this is ridiculous!..how amusing…..oh God!!”
Just a few of the expletives (the facial expressions were even more precious)when twenty tourists are faced with a rather daunting disembarkation…… we were asked to step off the speed boat into the three foot shallows of Gulf of Siam and wade our way to the shore of Koh Mak, luggage carried aloft. A short haul along the main Ao Kao beach and we ensconced ourselves in a dreamy little bungalow with a restaurant called “The Relax”, interesting syntax, but sums up perfectly the reasons for coming here.
Not speaking Scandinavian could be viewed as a problem (all of the resorts here are strongly geared toward that particular demographic), but if you want real downtime then the “lost in translation” excuse works perfectly in your favor.
For both of us, the shallowsoothing sounds of crashing waves and wafting banana leaves is unnervingly meditative, but as we know with all things meditative, the brain often goes places you don’t want it to, and it takes a few days to graciously embody the role of the “beach bum”. Never has the philosophy of “in the moment” meant more to me than now. So ..yes…..bloody hell…yes I think monkey-minded James may be chilling. I have only one small fixation at the moment and it is with the science of SPF application. This has become a daily ritual, when, at around 11-00am the numerous bottles of salves and lotions are laid out and applied in ever decreasing protection to all body parts. Who would have thought that one continuous epidermal layer could tan so diversely?
Things are looking up canine lovers……. The dogs on KohMak are cute and healthy and guard your hallowed door by night….well…..not so much guard as sleep on your comfy deck chairs .

The After-Life of Plastic

2009-02-02T20:31:00.002-05:00

Nite Market

Curry To Go!

Moving on to the small island of Koh Mak today which holds little of blog value, merely a collection of beauteous white sandy beaches which means hedonists nirvana for us and leaves you feeling envious and angry whilst you brave the arduous winter. So let me change tack for a moment and share some ruminations on a rather disturbing blot on the Thai landscape…the all-pervading presence of “PLASTIC”. It is everywhere….you get your curry in it, you even get your iced coffee in it …added to the sunscreen bottles, the water bottles, the juice bottles, the subsequent flotsam and jetsam are clearly a major ecological problem on these shores.

Another dichotomy I venture, where are the karmic rules on polymers?

Our canine loving friends, Randye, Fred, Loring, Jamie, would be distraught if they were to see the way animals are treated here, the streets are full of emaciated, mange-ridden, ailing dogs. But the Thai Buddhist doctrine of “Kam Kao” old sins, old actions…….means that their suffering is part of their karmic journey and therefore renders the justifications for their inevitable death irrefutable. Without sounding morbid, our four legged friends are, at least biodegradable……..the same cannot be said for plastic. All thoughts on the karmic nature of oil derivitives welcomed. Anon.

Bang Bao, A Welcome Paradise

2009-01-31T22:30:00.006-05:00

Sea Hut

We have GIN!!

Comfy Bed

The biggest concern....Falling Coconuts!!

The Beach!

Fortunately the rapacious grip of tourism has not spread to the shores of Koh Chang, though there are a scattering of billboards depicting not particularly pleasant schemes for the future. We headed to the south of the island and the sleepy fishing village of Bang Bao. The “Sea Hut” resort had been recommended by Michael, our host in Ban Saray. The village itself is built on the stilts of one long extended pier that reaches out into the sheltered harbour and contains a lengthy covered corridor of restaurants, dive shops, craft and clothing stores.

A subtle little wooden sign points of to the right and guides you onto a walkway out over the jade green waters at the end of which lie a cluster of Aqua painted Maldives Huts……..breathtaking!!!!! The beaches , seafood and chill factor here are highly intoxicating so we’re going to hang for a bit…………..see you when we get back from the beach!

Onward to Elephant Island

2009-01-31T22:06:00.008-05:00

Where are we going??

The Ferry!

Koh Chang [Elephant Island]

The onward journey to Koh Chang (Elephant Island) meant Pattya revisited, albeit briefly. The Minibus companies operate out of there, and as we notched off several stops to collect our fellow travelers, numerous afore-mentioned 'farang' ( foreigners) were seen scouring the streets In the morning rush hour making their way to or from slumber.

The landscape of South Eastern Thailand this time of the year, the dry season, is surprisingly monotonous. the four and a half hour trip toward Trat and it’s outlying port sadly offering little in the way of visual stimulation. Juxapostion is the recurring fascination here rather than the endless swathes of jungle…..Rubber Plantation sidled against Steelyard, Spa next to gas station…….designer condos proximate to temple crematoria…the list goes on.

We were taken to a holding area approx three miles from the ferry where we were processed and adorned with sticky badges with smiley faces……each color signifying our final destination, ours were blue. Then boarded another bus and whisked to the dockside.

“Junk” is probably the most appropriate word for our vessel as it describes both a flat bottomed boat , but more aptly, a discarded article that was clearly considered worthless or of little value.

Probably built in the 60’s or 70s,the fjord crossing variety, engines fore and aft and bearing a vague resemblance to the Shelter Island Ferry(sorry Shelter Island Ferry). All the more intriguing, was the improvised choreography performed when the starboard engine failed to start. Several pre -pubescent sailors scurried into the hatches through the reek of smoke and diesel fuel…tubes were connected and disconnected……all viewed by a more than supportive audience on the upper deck I might add…a cough and a splutter and then we were off!

Editor's Note

2009-01-31T22:01:00.003-05:00

We have received some compliments about the blog. Thanks. To do justice and to give credit where credit is do, etc; James is the author of the blog and I do the photos and edit for the local facts. As soon as we get the sand off our hands, more postings coming soon......

Bob

Pattaya & the Underbelly

2009-01-27T22:29:00.001-05:00

All cultures are guilty of carrying their creature comforts abroad, those little things that make existence in an alien place all the more bearable. But nothing prepares you for the extremes exhibited on the streets of Pattya.
Our host, Michael Barrett, an old friend of Bob’s, had issued subtle warnings, but the reality of this grimy, seething mass of humanity and its mainly Norwegian, British, German and Dutch imports in search of sea, sun and sex in all flavors really did rouse the Presbyterian in me. It wasn’t so much the “trade” itself, but the dichotomy of the modest and reserved Thais must face in the industry. The streets seemed to be filled with elderly, bleach blonde, beer- bellied predators in speedo....yes speedo....eugggh..... looking for “the one”.
I think I’d better stop now as I may become overly judgmental.

The street sign which reads “Cabbages and Condoms” contains an interesting tale.
The restaurant name honors the work of the man responsible for monitoring population control in Thailand, who in the 1970’s embraced the Thai’s inherent sense of fun and introduced amusing educational workshops to demystify the stigma of the aforementioned by making them in rubber balloon and other assorted fun objects
His efforts were a resounding success and worked wonders for both birth control and undoubtedly the control of the spread of STD’s.

A simple day of sun tomorrow and then the bus to Ko Chang island on Thursday morning.
More news soon!

J + B

Southward to Bang Saray

2009-01-27T22:25:00.002-05:00

A quick word of advice when visiting Bangkok.......find accommodation near the river as the express boats are the quickest way of getting anywhere. It can take two hours or more just to reach the outskirts of the city by car.

Bang Saray is an old fishing village two and half hours south of Bangkok and approx twenty-five minutes south of Pattaya. It was a sudden, yet refreshing exposure to Thai village life and the strong familial bonds and traditions of this country. The array of trades as you stroll down the labyrinth of tiny streets are too numerous to mention and something that we haven’t touched upon in detail is the relevance of food in Thai culture and in Bang Saray seafood is king! Dried, poached, pureed, marinated, grilled, fried, it’s ever-present and straight off the boat which oftentimes is ten feet from the restaurant......fresh fresh fresh!

Wat Phra Kheow (Emerald Buddha Temple)

2009-01-27T22:19:00.004-05:00

In retrospect it would have been much wiser to seize the opportunity to tour the temple on the day we arrived. Saturday morning on the weekend of Chinese New Year confronted us with a swarming mass of tourists.
Nonetheless this experience was truly amazing....the workmanship and detail on this compound of religious buildings is breathtakingly beautiful. One is immediately struck by the influences these designs and motifs had on Western culture and its presence in the ceramics, textiles and wallpapers of the Arts and Crafts movements .The temple complex is vast and involves an endless process of restoration.

The Emerald Buddha is in fact carved from Jade and was discovered in 1434.......for centuries it had been coated in plaster, possibly to deceive plundering tribes, then one day an abbot noticed a flaking piece of plaster and the rest is history , The architectural model of Angkor Wat situated in the surrounding gardens is so impressive that the prospect of seeing the real thing is a tad overwhelming . The outlying buildings on the perimeter house one of the most detailed pictorial murals of the Ramayana you will ever see.

P.S. Remember to wear long pants or alternatively rent some from the tourist office.

Traveling to the land of Smiles

2009-01-23T23:36:00.006-05:00

Embarkation

It’s not the most reassuring of omens when the one important tool you want to take on vacation malfunctions seconds before leaving the apartment, but ours did . The camera….our way of visually recording the ensuing 30 days, had thrown a digital drama and refused to join us. Ne’r mind…deep breath…the absence of images for the first 48 hours or so would simply necessitate a witty turn of phrase perhaps and some prosaic mastery on our behalf. So after a hasty taxi ride to JFK and a cuddly coating of pink foaming de-icer on our Boeing 747-400, we were off, the graceful service of the JAL cabin crew nurturing us on our way to the Orient.

There’s always one.
We had been looking forward to our lay-over in Tokyo, as you are all aware of our penchant for things Japanese, and although Narita airport had little to offer in the way of artful or cultural insights it did give us a rare sighting of none other than the conversationally self-sustaining “lonely traveler”. After the first league of our twenty three hour flight, a customary cocktail was needed so we headed to an airport eatery…one of those where an array of plastic culinary sculptures shows you glossy meals numbered one through fourteen?
She was a young lady in her early to mid thirties who on first assessment was kind of cute, with her auburn locks, and New England lisp. She had found herself a high-stool right in the center of the bar and politely ordered a Cabernet Shiraz to coat her chords. Moments later, the first of several nomadic nibblers seated themselves in close proximity and made the awful mistake of engaging …for you see, sadly ,once eye contact was made with this spinner of yarns she entered into a brief strategic preamble and then , without warning, launched into her MONOLOGUE. In the short space of time it took to down a Kirin and a hotdog the story of her flight from Nairobi to Tokyo and soon onward to Chicago for her grandfather’s funeral…….her adventures as a TEFAL teacher in the East, her engagement to her talented and “oops” did I say “wealthy fiancé” was revisited a total of seven times (with embelishments)………
“Flight Number JAL 707 to Bangkok is now available for boarding…………….saved by the PA……thank God for that.”!!!!!!!!

WED 21ST Bangkok / Navalai River Resort / Banglamphu

The intermittent doses of Melatonin and Advil PM had tackled the “lag” full on .
We had one mundane task to get out of the way before our rendezvous with one of Bob’s old Peace Corps friends…Kirk Horton…..the purchase of a digital camera .
Real easy guys…….note this down for further reference………take taxi to MBK center…go third floor ..take your pick………in our case the ever so small and simple Olympus FE 20 …
With all that out of the way, it was time to absorb the sights and smells of Bangkok, but our host had other ideas and instead introduced us to a wondrous hidden side-street gem that links the east to the west. We all know what a special place Jack Larsen and the Longhouse hold in our hearts, and there’s another special place you must make room for…The James H.W. Thompson Foundation ,House and Museum.

An American who was born in Delaware and during the war was sent to Asia. he was smitten and post war returned to Thailand. He single handedly revived the ailing silk weaving industry and gained further renown through the construction of a traditional Thai house combining six teak buildings. These house his collection of pottery and other artifacts. This was such a wonderful surprise and we would urge you to pay a visit..if not in the flesh ……follow the link . www.jimthompsonhouse.com/
An added bonus to the visit was the tasting menu at the center’s restaurant ….our guide assured us it was of a very high standard.
Close by, the Arts and Cultural center…a building echoing the inner structure of the Guggenheim and housing a vacuous exhibit of art relating to the ever-changing landscape of the Chao Prrahya river.